Field journal
Notes from the trail.
Guides tell you how. This is the rest of it — the decisions, the people, and the things nobody mentions until you are eight days in.
On the trail · 5 min read
The porter who carries the door
Everything in the Khumbu arrived on someone's back. Once you notice that, you walk differently.
Judgement calls · 6 min read
Why we turned back at Lobuche
Base Camp was one day away and the whole group was strong. We went down anyway. Here's the reasoning.
Trail life · 5 min read
What a rest day in Namche actually looks like
It is not a day off. It is the day that decides whether the rest of your trek works.
Food · 4 min read
Dal bhat, twice a day, for two weeks
Why the same meal twice a day is the smartest thing on the menu — and what to order when you cannot face it again.
Practical stuff
Planning rather than reading?
The guides cover altitude, kit, seasons and permits properly.
Health · 7 min read
Altitude and acclimatisation
Altitude is the single biggest reason people don't reach Base Camp — and almost all of it is manageable if you go slowly and pay attention.
Preparation · 9 min read
What to actually pack
A working kit list for a Nepal teahouse trek, what you can hire in Kathmandu, and the things people carry for two weeks and never use.
Planning · 6 min read
The best time to trek in Nepal
Two main seasons, two shoulder seasons, and one region that works when everywhere else is under cloud.